4 Ways to Get to Machu Picchu without Hiking the Inca Trail

Machu Picchu has quickly grown in popularity among travelers after being voted one of the "New 7 Wonders of the World" in 2007. In visiting the 15th century Incan city, the first thing that comes to mind is a strenuous hike traversing the Inca Trail for 4-5 days to reach the ruins located at an altitude of about 8,000 ft. Which, to many minds, doesn't necessarily sound like a "vacation." Rarely do I consider something a vacation if there isn't a toilet.

As such, when we launched our "Taste of Peru and Machu Picchu Tour" some of our travelers hesitated on joining because of the common misconception that the only way to reach the ruins was by means of hiking and camping. Although there are many multi-day treks which accomplish that goal (and work up a serious appetite), we're here to set the record straight that there are other ways to reach the UNESCO World Heritage Site without the need to train like an athlete beforehand.

The city of Cusco is most often the starting point for a journey to Machu Picchu. Travelers arrive to Cusco via flights from the capital of Lima. Although there are buses that make the journey, we recommend the 1 hour 20 minute flight since there are numerous daily departures on LATAM and Avianca Airlines and they are relatively budget-friendly.

LAN flight from Lima to Cusco, now LATAM Airlines

In addition to the travel options I mention below there are also alternative treks, hikes, and walks which will lead you to Machu Picchu. However, I'm assuming if you're not interested in a 4-day trek on the Inca Trail, you're probably not interested in a 32 km walk to Aguas Calientes. Wild assumption, I know. That said, here are 4 ways to reach Machu Picchu without breaking your back:

Step 1: Travel from Cusco to Aguas Calientes (also referred to as Machu Picchu village) 

We recommend transiting to Aguas Calientes at least one day prior to your visit to Machu Picchu. Aguas Calientes is a small town approximately 6 km from the ruins; it is primarily a tourist hub with hotels, restaurants, and a train station to serve travelers on their way to the ruins.

1. Train from Cusco - From Cusco you can catch a taxi to Poroy, a small town about 25 minutes away, which has a train station. The train journey is about 3 hours and 20 minutes and stops once on the way to Aguas Calientes. This route is operated by PeruRail and IncaRail.

2. Bus/Drive + Train from Cusco - Given that Cusco is at a higher altitude (approximately 11,000 feet), we recommend spending time in the Sacred Valley (approximately 6,000 feet) before slowly progressing to Machu Picchu and then Cusco. If you choose this option, you can first fly into Cusco, then take a taxi or private vehicle directly to Urubamba or Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley. From Ollantaytambo you take the train to Aguas Calientes which is about a 1 hour 50 minute train journey.

Views driving through the Sacred Valley on the way to the train station in Ollantaytambo

A PeruRail train arriving in Aguas Calientes

Step 2: Travel from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu Ruins

After arriving by train to Aguas Calientes we recommend staying at least one night. The train track runs through the middle of the town so it's easy to access most hotels on foot.

3. Bus - Starting at 5:30 AM every day, there is a circuit of buses which ferry travelers on a 25 minute ride to the entrance gates of the ruins. Tickets for the bus should be purchased in advance and you can take the bus round trip to return to Aguas Calientes.

4. Hike - Okay...so this one might actually break your back a little. However, this is the only alternative from Aguas Calientes to reach the ruins. If you wish to hike to the ruins entrance gates, it is an 8 km hike from town, up a steep mountainside path.

Waiting for the first bus of the morning to take us to Machu Picchu Ruins!

On our 9-day small group tour of 12 people maximum, we crafted an itinerary which gives you the best of both worlds. You get the breathtaking views looking out over Machu Picchu, with the creature comforts of some of Peru's finest award-winning lodges and accommodations. We use a combination of private transfers in air-conditioned vehicles, train travel, and the Aguas Calientes bus to reach Machu Picchu. We take the guess work out of buying tickets, securing entrance times, and all of the finicky logistics. For more information on our itinerary and whether it's the best fit for you, please email us at info@thetablelesstraveled.com or call 425.894.8976.

Main square and cathedral in Cusco

Cheesemakers in the markets in the Sacred Valley

Visiting the Maras Salt Mines

Right before we jumped on paddleboards on this serene lake

A lesson in roasting at the coffee museum

One of the best sandwiches in Lima - yum!

5 Tips for Using Your Cell Phone Abroad

International travel can wreak havoc on your cell phone bill. When I worked in the telecom world we frequently had clients who ran up bills over $2,000 a month from roaming on their vacations, and having no clue that data was still running on their phones.

Nowadays the major US cell phone carriers have international roaming plans which vary in their offerings and cost. However, if you’re leaning towards “going dark” and foregoing an additional plan while traveling then here are some tips to make sure you’re not racking up bills that will cost you more than your trip!

1. Understand what you’re being charged for – most cell phone bills are broken into three parts where you’re charged for (1) voice, (2) text, and (3) data. Data seems to be the most complicated for my clients when they talk about international usage. If you are connected to a wi-fi network accessing the internet or apps, then you are not using data. If you are not connected to wi-fi and you’re accessing the internet or apps that require internet then you’re using your data. As soon as you arrive to your hotel, connect to the wi-fi network to limit the data you use.
2. Turn off your “roaming data” – an easy way to prevent data charges is to turn off the setting on your phone which allows “international roaming.” Here’s a tutorial for iPhone users and Samsung users.
3. Use apps for messaging & calls – there are many apps which can replace your “voice” and “text” usage. That way, when you’re connected to wi-fi you can use that connection (as opposed to your voice, text, or data usage) to talk or text. Apple users can use iMessage, FaceTime, and voice calls (for iPhone5c or later) over wifi. Anybody can use apps like WhatsApp, Skype, and Google Hangouts which allow you to message, call, and video call with other users who have the apps. To call regular phone numbers (people who don’t have these apps) you can also use Skype over wi-fi and purchase credits (like a calling card) at a very low per-minute calling rate.
4. Download maps for offline use – travelers commonly rack up data usage from using their maps for directions or navigation while traveling. In the Google Maps app you can still use the compass/orientation even if your data roaming is turned off. Additionally, you can download maps (over wifi) for offline use while you’re walking around. (Google Maps instructions for offline downloads.)
5. Monitor data usage – if you decide to leave your data plan on, but want to make sure you’re not going over the allotted amount, you can use a free app like My Data Manager to monitor your usage.

Of course this is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to using technology efficiently while traveling. In the coming months I’ll share more tips about the best ways to use tech tools. If you have specific questions let me know and I’ll answer them! Shoot me an email at info@thetablelesstraveled.com.

3 of "The World's 50 Best Restaurants" are...Where?!

Every time I casually tell people that Lima, Peru has three of The World's 50 Best Restaurants (from Pellegrino's annual list), they can't believe me. And then the question usually follows jokingly, "Did they serve you guinea pig?" And then I deadpan, "Yes." Because, yes, they do serve guinea pig. And YES, it was one of the most savory, succulent, and delicious things I've ever eaten. Ever.

When I discovered that Lima was a food haven I was well into planning our Peru trip and had heard from most people that the capital city was one that was "skippable." Well...I'm telling you from experience...if you like food, it is decidedly not skippable.

In two days, I dined at 3 of the best restaurants in the world. Central for lunch, Maido for dinner, and Astrid & Gaston for lunch the next day. Don't worry - I still ate breakfast at my favorite sandwich shop. Sandwiches aside, these 3 meals represented a huge variety of food inspiration, and creativity. Each experience was unique.

Waiting outside of the beautiful mansion of Astrid y Gaston for lunch. 

One of the first courses at Central...I was confused about what to eat.

Since dining there last year, Central rose in the ranks to #4 best restaurant in the world, and #1 in Latin America. Their tasting menu is based on altitudes, from the highest of highs in the Andes to the lowest of lows in the Amazon. They source ingredients from distinct regions of the country and create dishes you couldn't even imagine.

When I went to Maido it was ranked #44 and in 2016 it was the restaurant that took the "highest climber award" on the list to #13. Unlike your inability to tell your children that one of them is your favorite, I have no qualms about picking my favorite restaurant in Lima. And although I loved all of my eating in Peru, Maido stole my heart. During the 13 course tasting menu at the Maido sushi bar I was blown away by every single serving - a fusion between Japanese and Peruvian food, better known as "Nikkei" cuisine. The most umami based flavor explosion I've ever tasted was the thinly sliced and seared steak nigiri with a ponzu-infused quail egg on top. There is so much to say about this one piece of nigiri that in reality there is nothing I can say to do it justice.

The following day I made my way to Astrid & Gaston, now housed in a beautiful mansion with its own garden used for herbs and vegetables in the restaurant's daily preparations. Perhaps it was the fact that I was easing into the routine of eating at fancy pants restaurants, but regardless, this was the environment where I felt most at ease, most welcomed, and most befriended by the hosts and servers that I felt like I was sitting in a friend's home kitchen. This is where my guinea pig fantasies became realities. It was served in a trio of tastings - all with an Asian flare.

After lunch at Astrid y Gaston...full, happy, and loving Lima.

After 3 unforgettable meals in Lima I can assure you that if you're lucky enough to get reservations (or come on our group tour ... shameless plug) it is a city where your taste buds will be delighted. Some folks have responded by saying they don't like the idea of dining in "fancy, famous" restaurants while they're traveling because it doesn't feel like an authentic, local experience. And I would beg to differ. At least in Lima, I would. As I sat sola dining in these fantastic restaurants I eaves dropped (I admit) on conversations all around me. The majority of diners were locals, who worked nearby, or had a special occasion, or in one circumstance had been trying to get a reservation for a year. They were trying food that they deemed, rightfully so, to be a modern representation of their local cultural cuisine.

Join us on a culinary adventure for 9 days on our "Taste of Peru and Machu Picchu Tour." Groups are limited to 12 travelers for intimate experiences. Call us for more information or to hold a spot - 425.894.8976.

Fun street art in the Barranco neighborhood of Lima with the ocean in the background.

Exploring Italy's Hidden Gem, Emilia-Romagna

"Go to Bologna," Casey encouraged as we strolled up to the 15th green under the surprisingly warm Seattle summer sun. I received news during our round of golf that "Italy" won in our poll for which country people wanted to visit on our next food tour. Being that (a) Casey is a well-traveled food lover with trustworthy recommendations, and (b) I was playing poorly, I spent the balance of the game badgering her for advice about the must-see, off-the-beaten-path places in Italy.

The name of this Italian city sounded oddly familiar even though I didn't know it. After pecking a few letters into Google it dawned on me I knew this city because...my baloney has a first name it's...from BOLOGNA. Yes, Bologna is the home of Mortadella sausage which is the root of what we know as baloney in America. 

I am, admittedly, not the biggest fan of baloney. Thankfully, even though Bologna, the capitol of the Emilia-Romagna region, didn't tantalize my taste buds with its namesake meat treat, there was plenty more in store from neighboring cities in the region. Parma won me over me with its Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and its Prosciutto di Parma ham. You noticed a theme, didn't you? Call a food by where it's from.

During a hot August day, I met Alessandro from Italian Days Food Tours. We strolled through old streets of Bologna while he picked out cured meats, cheeses, and a baguette and then navigated us to Osteria del Sole. We settled into a back deck table while Alessandro unrolled the snacks from their protective papers and gave me the history of the bar which opened in 1465. Older than 'Murica. Like...way older. They were drinking at that bar before we were even a country. I digress. While I debated whether Alessandro was going to be admonished for unfurling our snacks at the bar, he casually mentioned the bar didn't serve food so patrons should bring their own. BYOF. I can dig it. You order a bottle of Pignoletto (a local, sparkling white wine) and chow down on whatever delicious grub you've rounded up from nearby vendors.

Then and there, I knew this guy was legit. Alessandro oozed excitement for his treasured Emilia-Romagna. He was the food ambassador of Bologna to the world. And he was there to teach me their ways. 

As he shot a quick glance around the room he produced a small glass bottle from his pocket, asserting in a hushed tone, "This is the real stuff. Real Italians bring their own balsamico." He slowly tipped the bottle over a piece of cheese as the balsamic slowly crept out in a thick, syrupy consistency. It was nothing like the "balsamic vinegar" I'd seen at home. The sweet and sour taste of the balsamico combined with the rich, nutty flavor of the Parmigiano-Reggiano balanced each other perfectly. I mopped up every last drop of the liquid gold balsamic with bread as Alessandro contently surveyed his new found faithful follower. He didn't need any further words. Emilia-Romagna was my heaven.

Days later I returned with Angela from Savor Seattle Food Tours to indulge in a food excursion unlike any other. Alessandro swept us up in his world dazzling us with personal stories about families and producers as we visited a Parmigiano-Reggiano factory, a Prosciutto di Parma factory, and a farm where they aged Balsamico in Modena. We were then spoiled with a lavish pasta meal served family style with views of the vineyards, and we finished by climbing into the countryside hills to hunt for truffles.

With full bellies and happy hearts, Angela and I sat silently whizzing by picturesque views on our fast train back to Florence. My mind recalled Casey's worthy recommendation as I pondered how this magnificent region had flown so far under the tourist radar, clearly playing second fiddle to its neighbor Tuscany. 

In merely one year since my delightful first experience with Emilia-Romagna, it has garnered significantly more publicity. I now see it regularly mentioned on food blogs (pot, kettle, black), Instagram feeds, and travel and food shows. Our little gem is becoming more and more popular, thanks in part to passionate locals like Alessandro. 

Travel meetup in London. Good to see the king of cheese-pushers. I'm an official follower - fork bracelet and all.

And although I sing Alessandro's praises (if Parmigiano-Reggiano is the king of cheeses, Alessandro is the king of cheese pushers - I can hear him now shouting, "Mangia! Mangia!"), a little piece of me is sad that this beautiful region which offered me a respite from the constant sea of tourists will soon be swarmed by the crowds. Regardless, Emilia-Romagna will remain a gem in my heart...and hopefully yours too.

Adventuring in the Andes - Machu Picchu and Beyond

We stopped once again, closed our eyes, and slowly inhaled and exhaled five times as I counted on my fingers with each breath. After a mutual check of, “good?”, “good?”, “good”, Katie and I continued on, pointing toward the next small step or corner of shade where we could stop for a “breathing break.” Despite having conquered the “Condor’s Pass” summit just the day before at 14,000 feet, our bodies were taxed and pushing ourselves up Machu Picchu Mountain, at a lower altitude, still wasn’t coming easily.

Looking down on the ruins from Machu Picchu Mountain

My best friend, Katie, and I had long been awaiting the day to check Machu Picchu off the top of our bucket lists. And here we finally were.  After a 3-day trek through the Sacred Valley we spent one night in Aguas Calientes (often referred to as the town of Machu Picchu) before rising early for the buses which take eager travelers to the Incan ruins.

We stood perched overlooking the ruins as the morning sun rose over the famous site, taking every cliché Machu Picchu tourist picture we could think of. Then our guide, Tio (uncle) Wilson, took us on a tour back in time around the ruins. At every turn there was an architectural feat or a design stroke of genius. At which point Katie and I pondered how we would have survived as Incans given our near failure of our high school physics class. We’ll just say we got “a lot of support” from Katie’s dad on our partner projects. Thanks, Jim.

Although our day trip to Machu Picchu was fascinating, and should be on every traveler’s list, in the end it was not the highlight of my adventure to the Andes. Instead, my most fond memories will be the ones that are not sites to see or places to visit, rather moments of joy and connection.

• Building a bond with our new “familia” of trekkers, tour leaders, and porters on the Lares Trek.

• Gently telling Katie that although she hated me taking pictures of her suffering altitude sickness against the most beautiful background, one day, she’d laugh looking at them and thank me. I don’t think she’s quite there yet. One day…

I know...I'm an evil friend.

• Feeling elated that we made it successfully up and over the pass…which we all stared up at during breakfast the second morning gawking, “THAT’S where we’re hiking?!”

• Playing hide and seek with the cutest little boy at our second campsite as he giggled hysterically. I’m not sure why this is a magic game…but it breaks every language barrier for children.

• Waking up to the most beautiful sunrise over a small lake high in the Andes while llamas roamed free around us.  Llamallamallamallamallama.

• Struggling up the mountains as school kids stormed pass us with ease on their daily 8 km + hike from their school bus stops to their villages.

• Sharing these extraordinary experiences with Katie and her boyfriend Chris, who was a happy go-lucky addition to our traveling crew. He definitely needed that light-hearted spirit to survive an international trip with the two of us.

• Paying respects to Pachamama (Mother Earth) on our final day in Lares, with a reminder from Tio that whenever life gets challenging, think back to this peaceful, blessed, and thankful day.

Often after the laborious part of planning a trip we most look forward to the events, but it’s the small moments that we stumble upon serendipitously which end up being the most memorable. Remember when you’re traveling that not everything goes as planned all the time (unless you work with me – shameless plug). But when things go sideways, take advantage of the unexpected memories that may result.

Just ask Katie…well…maybe give her a few months first. But I’m sure she didn’t want to get sick on the trip. But I guarantee she’ll remember the small, funny things that happened like the mule Trueno who helped her up the mountain and her very limited ability to speak with the horseman, Nestor, who ended up being a great motivation with his constant smiles and happy demeanor.